The Rougher Edges of These Stories
This blog was originally published to the Jewish Federations Of America website in honor of Jerusalem Day on May 8. Read it on their website »
- Violet Baron
The popular Israeli band Hadag Nahash has a song called “Hine Ani Ba” or “Here I Come,” which gives a sense of the contrast between Israel’s cities of Jerusalem and Tel Aviv. Starting out in Jerusalem, the song’s protagonist aches to get out of the ancient, religious city that he finds stifling, and to start a new life in the individualist Tel Aviv. The catch is that once he’s there, he yearns to return to the eternal city from which he left, which he notes is more wholesome and pleasant to him than Tel Aviv. Ultimately, he leaves again for Tel Aviv, because of its stress on happiness over piety—but the decision is not a simple one. This struggle is accurate—Jerusalem is a city apart, and cannot be easily compared with any other city in Israel, or in the world.
Some non-natives equate Jerusalem with Israel itself, viewing this ancient and religiously focused city as a microcosm of the Jewish State. This perspective does not take into consideration Israel’s secular and socialist beginnings, dominated by the Labor Party for several decades. It was not until more recent years that religion rose to the forefront of Israeli politics, with Ultra-Orthodox residents rising exponentially in number and demanding more out of the government. However, for a short visit Jerusalem might appear just as it does in storybooks and in Jewish education: an enchanting Jewish city, with roots reaching back thousands of years.
When one arrives at the ancient wall around the Old City of Jerusalem, it’s hard not to be transported immediately to the Middle Ages, when a Walled City was something to take note of and turrets were a common, un-ironic architectural feature. In fact, Jerusalem’s walled status does still have meaning in modern-day practice: Purim is celebrated a day later here, as it has been for centuries. This ancient and Medieval Jewish medley blends with more recent innovations to the city: shortly before sundown on Friday evening, a siren sounds throughout the downtown area, signaling the start of Shabbat. At this point nearly all stores are closed and the streets empty out, as many residents can be found in their homes, blessing the Sabbath and eating a traditional meal with their families.
A new visitor could be blown away by the cultural significance of the wall and siren, and forget Jerusalem’s other walls and sirens that have huge impact on the world we live in today. There is also, of course, the Western or Wailing Wall, a remnant of the Second Temple to which millions of Jews come to pray. That wall is technically located in East Jerusalem, which brings to mind the Separation Wall between Israel Proper and the West Bank. This wall lacks the characteristic Jerusalem Stone, and it is a constant reminder of the tumult and tension of the region. In addition, there is the national siren to commemorate those killed during the Holocaust and the fallen in Israel’s many wars and battles. Finally, there is the Tzeva Adom missile warning siren, which those living in Israel heard too many times last November during the Amud Anan Operation with Gaza. These sirens and that wall are less tourist-friendly but just as relevant to Israel’s history and future. Someone who yearns to return to Israel, and to Jerusalem in particular, must learn to live with all of these things.
During the mass Exodus and migration of Ethiopian Jews in the 1980’s and 1990’s, thousands of African villagers crossed miles into Sudan on foot, seeking to escape their Marxist leader and reach the famed Jerusalem of legend; the Holy City that survived the Jewish Diaspora through story and prayer. Many did not make it and perished along the way, while others survived the incredible journey but continue to struggle with poverty and culture shock in the modern city and elsewhere in Israel. On Wednesday we honor Jerusalem and remember those Ethiopians who could not make it here. We would do well to remember the rougher edges of these stories as well: the continuing challenges that our walls and sirens signify, and the Ethiopians who completed the physical journey here but are struggling daily for economic stability and success within Israeli society.
- Violet Baron
Ethiopians on their way to Israel during a rescue operation
|
Some non-natives equate Jerusalem with Israel itself, viewing this ancient and religiously focused city as a microcosm of the Jewish State. This perspective does not take into consideration Israel’s secular and socialist beginnings, dominated by the Labor Party for several decades. It was not until more recent years that religion rose to the forefront of Israeli politics, with Ultra-Orthodox residents rising exponentially in number and demanding more out of the government. However, for a short visit Jerusalem might appear just as it does in storybooks and in Jewish education: an enchanting Jewish city, with roots reaching back thousands of years.
When one arrives at the ancient wall around the Old City of Jerusalem, it’s hard not to be transported immediately to the Middle Ages, when a Walled City was something to take note of and turrets were a common, un-ironic architectural feature. In fact, Jerusalem’s walled status does still have meaning in modern-day practice: Purim is celebrated a day later here, as it has been for centuries. This ancient and Medieval Jewish medley blends with more recent innovations to the city: shortly before sundown on Friday evening, a siren sounds throughout the downtown area, signaling the start of Shabbat. At this point nearly all stores are closed and the streets empty out, as many residents can be found in their homes, blessing the Sabbath and eating a traditional meal with their families.
A new visitor could be blown away by the cultural significance of the wall and siren, and forget Jerusalem’s other walls and sirens that have huge impact on the world we live in today. There is also, of course, the Western or Wailing Wall, a remnant of the Second Temple to which millions of Jews come to pray. That wall is technically located in East Jerusalem, which brings to mind the Separation Wall between Israel Proper and the West Bank. This wall lacks the characteristic Jerusalem Stone, and it is a constant reminder of the tumult and tension of the region. In addition, there is the national siren to commemorate those killed during the Holocaust and the fallen in Israel’s many wars and battles. Finally, there is the Tzeva Adom missile warning siren, which those living in Israel heard too many times last November during the Amud Anan Operation with Gaza. These sirens and that wall are less tourist-friendly but just as relevant to Israel’s history and future. Someone who yearns to return to Israel, and to Jerusalem in particular, must learn to live with all of these things.
During the mass Exodus and migration of Ethiopian Jews in the 1980’s and 1990’s, thousands of African villagers crossed miles into Sudan on foot, seeking to escape their Marxist leader and reach the famed Jerusalem of legend; the Holy City that survived the Jewish Diaspora through story and prayer. Many did not make it and perished along the way, while others survived the incredible journey but continue to struggle with poverty and culture shock in the modern city and elsewhere in Israel. On Wednesday we honor Jerusalem and remember those Ethiopians who could not make it here. We would do well to remember the rougher edges of these stories as well: the continuing challenges that our walls and sirens signify, and the Ethiopians who completed the physical journey here but are struggling daily for economic stability and success within Israeli society.
Comments
Post a Comment